A Cajun Country Ramble, ca. 1955

February 1st, 2012

For our next Family Meal beginning Friday and continuing through Mardi Gras, I wanted to do something different from your typical, expected po’ boys, red beans and rice, and whatnot that’s associated with the revelry in the French Quarter, and instead travel west of town into the countryside for a taste of Cajun country cooking. The final week before Mardi Gras, we will also offer crawfish etouffee, red beans and rice, and peacemaker po’ boys on our a la carte menu.

One of the unique traditions of Mardi Gras in Acadiana is the “Courir de Mardi Gras” or Fat Tuesday Run, in which roving bands of revelers eat and drink heavily, don masks and costumes, and travel the countryside in an old begging ritual, stopping by house after house, making all manner of racket, singing, dancing, and spreading the cheer all while demanding a contribution to the community gumbo pot – a chicken, a piece of sausage, a fistful of file, or what have you – before they would leave you in peace and go on to the next house.

Of course this leads to quite a fantastic pot of gumbo. The community gumbo pot is a venerated old tradition, including “Sunday” gumbo, a phenomenon you’d get when everyone brought a contribution to the gumbo pot when attending church on Sunday. As unseemly as it might be, we are going to recreate the community gumbo pot by putting literally everything we can into it – chicken, sausage, ham, alligator, crawfish, and all manner of seafood.

What I’ve set out to do here is create a meal you might have encountered in a Cajun country Mardi Gras celebration back when it was still very isolated and long before the rest of the country had even heard of the word “Cajun,” on the cusp of the Federal-Aid Highway Act of 1956, which would bring roads and bridges to all parts of the country and would gradually lead to the absorption of such remote areas into larger society.

As the South becomes more Americanized and America becomes more Southern, we invite you to join us for a meal remembering a bygone place and time. Laissez les bons temps rouler!

A Cajun Country Ramble, ca. 1955

Available daily 5 pm-9pm, February 3rd-26th

  • Crawfish and Pork Boudin Balls
  • Cracklin’s and Cornbread
  • Sunday File Gumbo – chicken, sausage, ham, catfish, crawfish, crab…
  • Creamy Potato Salad
  • Alligator & Andouille Sauce Piquante
  • Arkansas Delta rice with butter
  • King Cake
  • Tac-tac

$25 per person, family-style. Total table participation requested.

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Rittenhouse 100 is the February Whiskey of the Month!

February 1st, 2012

We’ve pulled a few strings and made a large purchase in order to bring you a whiskey that’s been hard to come by the last couple of years – Rittenhouse 100, one of our favorite rye whiskies and one of a number of labels that has become rare in these days of the rye whiskey revival. Knowing the current release would soon sell out, we bought a quantity to last awhile and also to be able to offer it as Whiskey of the Month. Rittenhouse 100 also makes us swoon because in spite of the spike in demand for rye whiskies of all types, they have kept their pricing steady over the last few releases, opting to make their money as they always have without gouging their new found fans. We’ve been long time fans, so we’re excited to be able to share this with you. As hard as it is to come by, it remains one of the best values in whiskey today because it is exceptionally good, and reasonably priced. If by chance you find a bottle for sale somewhere, we’d advise you snap it up.

Rye whiskey of course is the most storied of American spirits, made since colonial times and playing a key role in the inspiration of the whiskey rebellion. A great rye is a trip though time in your glass and Rittenhouse 100 delivers. It is produced at Heaven Hill in Bardstown, KY in the tradition of the storied Pennsylvania “Monongahela” whiskies of yore. It’s a mouthful, starting with a toasty nose of toffee, cocoa, and oolong tea, and a thick, rich texture on the palate with just a touch of sweetness, dried fruit, and mocha and laurel on the finish, with a touch of mineral leaving a metallic note. It’s complex stuff, worthy of a good ponder, and the sort of stuff that built this country. Cheers.

It’s free to join the Big Jones Bourbon Society, just ask your server or bartender to sign up on your next visit. You’ll receive a passport to forty of our more than sixty whiskeys. On each visit, members are welcome to one complimentary pour of the Whiskey of the Month (WOM) which will usually (but not always) be a straight Kentucky bourbon whiskey. Big Jones Bourbon Society members will also receive invitations to members-only events such as whiskey tastings and whiskey socials.

Of course you’re welcome to enjoy any whiskey on our list at any time. We’ll mark off your passport as you taste each of the forty whiskeys, and once you’ve tasted them all, you will earn the distinction of Master Taster, and win tickets for two to a one-of-a-kind all-out whiskey dinner. As the ranks of Master Tasters grows, we will host a series of monthly dinners for Master Tasters only.

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Be My Southern Valentine!

January 23rd, 2012

We can think of no more beautiful cooking to share on Valentine’s Day than the great American Southern cooking, with its centuries of history and all of the stories, romance, and intrigue that go along. From great wealth and terrible poverty, lowland marshes to mountaintops, the agrarian traditions of eating from the field, by garden and by gun, by trap and fish hook. It’s a storybook full of romance, and we feel it’s absolutely the best food for lovers on this special day.

Of course we will throw in some indulgences, something Southerners have always been known to do every chance they are given. So please, join us as we celebrate the romance of Southern cooking.

I am also proud to be offering a 5-course vegetable menu in addition to the tasting menu. I’ve promised more vegetable menus and hope to offer more in the future. This one will be special.

Saturday, February 11 and Tuesday, February 14 2012, 5-10 p.m. Saturday a limited a la carte menu will be offered in addition. Tuesday the 14th, only the tasting menus will be offered.

Five Course Tasting:

Amuse:
Appalachicola Bay Oyster, Louisiana Choupique Caviar, Yuzu Mignionette

Bread Service:
Awendaw Spoonbread, ca. 1770 with Truffle & Corn Mushroom Butter

First:
Cajun Boudin-filled Love Letters with Potted Peppers, Fried Leeks & Piccalilli Beurre Monte

Second:
Butter-roasted Hearts of Palm Salad, Candied Peanut, Preserved Kumquat, Frisee, Fried Shallot

Third:
Pecan Wood-Roasted Sturgeon with Celery Root Puree, Blue Fingerling Potato, Parched Andouille, and Fried Rosemary

Fourth:
Venison Pie a la Annabella Hill, ca. 1870 (Georgia) a shared plate

Fifth:
Chocolate Chess Pie with Salted Caramel, Candied Pecans, and Banana Ice Cream

Sixty-nine dollars per person, optional beverage pairings thirty dollars

Five Course Vegetable Menu:

Amuse:
Potato & Parsnip Soup, Spicy Cheese Straw, Bread & Butter Pickle Relish

Bread Service:
Awendaw Spoonbread, ca. 1770 with Truffle & Corn Mushroom Butter

First:
Fried Artichokes with Creole Rouille, Grilled Trevisio and Shaved Evalon Sheep’s Milk Cheese

Second:
Butter-roasted Hearts of Palm Salad, Candied Peanut, Preserved Kumquat, Frisee, Fried Shallot

Third:
Pan-fried Salsify “Oysters” ca. 1836 (Virginia) with Potted Peppers, Fried Leeks, Piccalilli Beurre Monte

Fourth:
Hand-rolled Egg Noodles with Porcinis, Horseradish Cream and Wood-grilled Little Gem Hearts

Fifth:
Chocolate Chess Pie with Salted Caramel, Candied Pecans, and Banana Ice Cream

Sixty-nine dollars per person, optional beverage pairings thirty dollars

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Our next family meal: Four Centuries of Heritage Grains

January 9th, 2012

This past fall, when we were filming for a segment with CBS Evening News, they asked if we had any old grains on hand they could shoot with the camera. Straight away we set to the four corners of the kitchen and the freezer to pull together everything we could, and on a random Tuesday in early October we had about a dozen on hand. We lined them up in little ceramic dishes and I went down the line with the camera explaining each one. That was one of the only moments in my life when I inspired myself, when I realized what I am doing in the present is special. It also made me want to do a dinner focused on these heritage grains.

You might say it is in spite of our whole animal cooking ethic, but I’d say it’s in sympathy, that over the last few years we’ve garnered a substantial vegetarian following because we cook with as much zeal when we’re handling vegetables as when we’re working with animals. A lot of folks with preferences for eating vegetarian have found us a reliable spot for creative vegetable cookery. I’ve mentioned many times that in spite of my omnivorous proclivities, I maintain a strong kinship with vegetarians because I was a vegetarian myself for several years.  For me it was a decision to check out of the industrial meat system, and as I found sources for responsibly raised animals, I gradually started eating everything again. Still, I know first hand how hard it is to find restaurants that 1) will cook vegetarian, 2) use quality ingredients that I myself would eat, and 3) do interesting things with them.

So, I hope to accomplish two things with this dinner – keep a place open at our table for our vegetarian friends, and showcase some stellar grains and field peas from our suppliers such as Anson Mills, Three Sisters, Giusto’s and Natural Way Mills. In these days of homogenized and commiditized everything, I hope this will be an eye opener to the possibilities of  renewal – a reawakening to the possibilities that are presented by heritage and heirloom grains, and a reminder of what we’ve had and what we’re in danger of losing.

The grains we feature for this dinner have all been grown organically, but more importantly, they are all old heirloom crops that are our common heritage – no one owns a patent on them, they haven’t been monopolized or sold out to the lowest common denominator. They haven’t been genetically engineered to withstand toxic chemicals or produce their own toxic pesticide. they’re just the same good, natural food that got us to where we are. And, they are phenomenally delicious.

Over the next week or so, I hope to tell some of the stories behind each of these grains and peas, so please check back and see what you might be able to learn. Either way, please come join us for this one-of-a-kind family-style dinner. I promise it’ll be one you won’t soon forget.

Heritage Grains of the South – Four centuries of the cultivated South

  • Sea Island Red Pea Bisque with rustic bennecake flour biscuits and green tomato chutney
  • Carolina gold rice risotto with garlic confit, cauliflower, yellow eye peas, and chives
  • Bread service: House-Milled Red Fife Sourdough – House-cultured sour starter and house-milled antebellum red fife wheat bread served with home made pear butter
  • Green Farro Salad – 0rganic green wheat, local black walnuts, parsley, and mint
  • Heirloom Squash Noodle Casserole – local kuri squash & Farina di Maccheroni “00” heirloom flour noodles, leeks, tupelo honey, and pumpkin seed oil
  • Rustic Aromatic Buckwheat Crepes with satsuma marmalade, toasted almonds, and laurel-aged Charleston gold rice horchata sorbet

25 dollars per person, children under twelve $1 per year Available 5-9 pm, changes weekly and with the seasons

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A Kentucky Tavern Winter’s Evening, ca. 1840 with Jim Beam’s small batch collection

January 4th, 2012

For the first whiskey dinner by the Big Jones Bourbon Society, we are benefiting from the serendipitous confluence of my planning this dinner while reading Southern Food: At Home, On the Road, in History by John Egerton, in which he states that Kentucky is second only to Louisiana with regards to its culinary traditions, from its chefs, cookbooks, restaurants, hotels, taverns, and home cooking traditions.

First of all, it ain’t no big thing to come up second to Louisiana when it comes to culinary tradition. Louisiana is gifted with an incredible history of multicultural influence along with the benefit of being a major port city for much of its history. I always thought of the Lowcountry as having a more esteemed (certainly much longer) tradition than the Kentucky hill country. The difference in the assessment came as Mr. Egerton penned it, in that the Lowcountry’s traditions have been very much kept in private home kitchens over the years, while Kentucky had a much broader tradition of hospitality through its inns and taverns, plus a home cooking tradition and many useful cookboks. Today the role may be reversed as Charleston’s restaurant scene has become so formidable, but to hear of this tradition in Kentucky gave me an idea.

Second of all, it was a bit of a shock to read of the history of Kentucky’s cooking. Having grown up a stone’s throw from Louisville – due west, in fact – it came as a surprise that my neck of the woods, even as we were across the great divide known as the Mason-Dixon, has been recognized for such great cooking. Don’t get me wrong – I witnessed a fading glimpse of this tradition when I was a young boy, even as it was living its last beautiful days. Chef s like myself in our generation have adopted the charge of saving these traditions and reinvigorating them before industrial-food restaurants and factory farms and the relentless pursuit of cheaper calories snuffs them out. That said, reading of the history of inns and taverns and the great hotels of Louisville, I found the inspiration for our first whiskey dinner. We hope to show you that the traditional way of eating was nourishing in a way that the modern industrial calorie industry cannot be.

As early as the late 18th century, would-be distillers heard the call of Kentucky as word spread of the exceptionally good corn you could grow there. The rest is history. I set out to reconstruct an early-19th century feast much like you could have enjoyed in the finer taverns of the day. One shortcoming we face when trying to reconstruct this cooking: Back in the day, you could fully expect such delicacies as bear, possum, deer, and squirrel to be offered when available. Unfortunately there are restrictions on our ability to sell truly wild game, but I have put together a menu of period dishes based upon foods that would have been commonly available in Bourbon Country in an early-19th century January.

Bourbons poured will come from the Jim Beam small batch collections – Booker’s, Basil Hayden’s, Knob Creek, and company, and present an opportunity to taste some fantastic whiskey and mark a few more notches in your Bourbon Passport.

Please join us for a memorable evening.

A Kentucky Tavern Winter’s Evening, ca. 1840

January 25, 2012

6:30 reception
7:00 dinner

  • Pearl onion soup with mutton dumplings

  • Bread service: Rice muffins with calf’s foot jelly

  • Fried oysters with tripe and sweet cream gravy

  • Barbecued shoat with baked beans, hominy, and pumpkin

  • Mince pie

  • Snowballs with pineapple ice cream

$48 per person, includes tax and gratuity

For reservations, call 773-275-5725

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