'specials' blog posts

It’s Mardi Gras at Big Jones, Laissez les Bon Temps Roulez!

Monday, January 21st, 2013

One of our favorite holidays of the year comes early this year! I’ve never really understood what moon or planetary phenomena determine when Easter falls each year, but if you count back forty-one days you find yourself on Mardi Gras a.k.a. Fat Tuesday, which falls on February 12 this year. In keeping with our now well-established tradition, we will be offering a special menu for a week leading up to Mardi Gras, beginning February 6 and culminating with our tour-de-force Mardi Gras Dinner.

These are days to celebrate the unique culinary & cultural traditions of Cajun country and also New Orleans, and to do so we’re starting by bringing back last year’s wildly popular Family Meal, A Cajun Country Ramble, ca. 1955. This family-style dinner celebrates some very unique Cajun country cooking, beginning with boudin and cracklin’ and ending with the gateaux de sirop, or cane syrup cake, and everything in between represents a very special cuisine unlike anything you’ll find anywhere else. The file gumbo is a homage to the community gumbo pot, something that would come together every Fat Tuesday as the Courir du Mardi Gras rambled throughout the countryside, stopping at all manner of homes and creating a big ruckus until a contribution to the community gumbo pot was secured. The gumbo has literally everything in it – sausage, ham, chicken, crab, crawfish… and is made with a very, very dark roux – pitch black in fact, very much unlike anything you’ll find in New Orleans, where Creole rouxs tend to be lighter. Andouille and alligator sauce piquant is another oh-so Cajun dish, this being alligator tail and loin simmered in a wicked spicy tomato sauce made with – you guessed it – a roux, though sauce piquant is typically made with a lighter roux so the red color shines through. If you’re looking for some hard-core Cajun country cooking, this is your best bet for Mardi Gras, but we run these special menus for a full week so you can explore both the Creole and Cajun sides of South Louisiana by coming back for more.

  • Crawfish and Pork Boudin Balls
  • Cracklin’s and Cornbread
  • Sunday File Gumbo – chicken, sausage, ham, catfish, crawfish, crab… served with creamy potato salad – it’s the Cajun way
  • Alligator & Andouille Sauce Piquante with Arkansas Delta rice
  • King Cake
  • Tac-tac

Speaking of the Creole side of things, many Creole Mardi Gras favorites will pop up on our menus for the week of February 6-12, served a la carte alongside the Cajun Country Ramble. Here’s the lowdown:

  • Barbecued shrimp
  • Jambalaya
  • Peacemaker Po’ Boys
  • Banh Mi Po’ Boys
  • Shrimp Po’ Boys
  • Muffuletta
  • Calas – those delectable rice fritters

Let’s not forget that we always have gumbo ya-ya and crawfish etouffee, both interpretations from the Cajun side of things, though Creoles have their versions of both dishes as well.

Please join us for a fantastic time, and if it’s an option at all and strikes your fancy, please visit New Orleans too!

Bq shrimp

poboyshrimp

Mardi Gras at Big Jones

Tuesday, January 8th, 2013

We’re pleased to announce our plans for Mardi Gras 2013. We are planning a special menu for the final week of the Mardi Gras season culminating on Fat Tuesday. The special menu will run from February 6-12 and is available from 5-9 p.m. daily, 5-11 p.m. on Fat Tuesday.

Especially exciting is the return of one of most popular family meals, A Cajun Country Ramble, ca. 1955. The family-style dinner includes both crawfish and liver boudin balls served with crispy house crackling, Sunday Gumbo with Cajun-style potato salad, a homage to the community gumbo pot which after church on Sunday would inevitably wind up with a little bit of everything in it, andouille and alligator sauce piquant with Delta rice, and Gateaux de Sirop for dessert, the traditional Cajun cane syrup cake which will be served with tac-tac a.k.a. caramel corn, and ice cream. The family meal is available every evening from February 6-12 from 5-10 p.m.

Special items on the savory menu include barbecued shrimp, cooked in the traditional way with U-10 head-on shrimp in a tangy gravy of hot sauce, house-made worcestershire, and butter, and peacemaker po boys, the iconic fried oyster po boy that has sated many a late-night reveler, red beans and rice cooked with pickled pig’s feet and served with grilled chaurice, and traditional chicken & sausage jambalaya.

Desserts on tap include the Cajun Gateaux de Sirop and calas, the Creole soured-rice fritter that was popular street food in the 19th century, and homemade king cake.

Reservations are highly recommended for the weekend before Mardi Gras and Mardi Gras day, and recommended the rest of the week. Reservations can be made by calling 773-275-5725.

A Cajun Country Ramble ca. 1955
Boudin & Cracklins

Crispy deep-fried balls of housemade boudin—crawfish and pork with crispy house crackling & cornbread

Sunday File Gumbo & Potato Salad
Homage to the community gumbo pot—a little bit of every-thing, thickened with sassafrass leaves, with Cajun potato salad

Alligator & Andouille Sauce Piquant
Louisiana alligator tail simmered in a spicy tomato sauce with our house-made andouille sausage, served with rice

Gateaux de Sirop
Traditional Cajun cane syrup cake with pecan & brown sugar crumble topping, served with home made ice cream

Family-style only for the entire table, $25 per person

Weekday Specials and Fried Chicken

Monday, December 10th, 2012

A Boarding House Lunch, ca. 1933

Available Monday-Friday 11 am – 3 pm
$16 per person, children under 12 $1 per year
Family-style only, total table participation requested

Biscuits and Cornbread * Fried Chicken
Mashed Potatoes & Gumbo Gravy * Voodoo Greens
Red Beans & Rice * Banana Pudding

 

A Soulful Fried Chicken Dinner

new!  Available Monday-Thursday 5-9 pm
$25 per person, children under 12 $2 per year
Family-style only, total table participation requested

Relish Tray * Biscuits and Cornbread * Fried Chicken
Mashed Potatoes & Gumbo Gravy * Voodoo Greens
Red Beans & Rice * Banana Pudding

Fried Chicken a la Carte, $19/ half chicken
with choice of two sides Monday – Thursday 5-9 pm

Christmas Eve, 2012

Tuesday, December 4th, 2012

Next Monday, December 24, we continue our tradition of offering a Creole Reveillon dinner in the true spirit of New Orleans holiday dining. Through most of the 19th century, Reveillons were held in the homes of the French Quarter’s Creole population, when churchgoers would arrive home after midnight mass famished, ready to break the pre-communion fast. AS you might imagine, in the homes of the food & drink-obsessed Creoles of the French Quarter, these dinners came to be many hours long, featuring course after course of decadent holiday treats meant at once to celebrate the holiday as well as break the fast in spectacular fashion, as New Orleanians have always been wont to do.

During the 20th century as the restaurant business developed in the emerging dining capital of the South, the finer restaurants in New Orleans began offering Reveillon menus themselves. After World War II particularly, as the demographics of the Quarter changed in addition to changing mores regarding Catholic Church canon and changing habits among churchgoers, the Reveillon tradition died, only to be revived over the last several years by the city’s white-hot restaurant scene. Dozens of restaurants there now offer Reveillon menus. Our humble dinner at Big Jones seeks to extend that tradition, to give a portrait of a beautiful time and place in New Orleans’ culinary history, to serve the many Louisiana expats who now call Chicago home, and to share our love of Southern hospitality with you in a uniquely seasonal way.

The most common format of Reveillon menus over the span of the tradition has been the Table d’Hote, a fancy name for a dinner of a set number of courses with choices for each course. We’ve opted to offer soup, salad, entree, and dessert, and while the scope of this humble dinner is too limited to revive the whole Creole cookery catalog, we offer you some delicacies both new and old, most importantly there is goose gumbo, game pies, bread pudding, satsumas, stuffed fish with rice dressing, doberge cake, and a handful of other edibles that have graced Reveillon tables for generations. Inspirations for this dinner come primarily from Creole Cookery, an 1885 book by the Christian Women’s League of New Orleans that you’ve surely seen on this blog many times, with a smattering of dishes from other New Orleans traditions, with one exception – the vanilla hearts of palm bisque is a new one we premiered last year to great reviews and call our own, even though its components would have been in many a Creole kitchen over the years, I found a uniquely delicious way to combine these elements. And, we’re especially exciting to be offering the Big Jones premiere of Tennessee-grown Tuber Melanosporum, or black winter truffle, the same species for which Perigord is famed, now cultivated in the fertile forests of Tennessee!

Please join us for a very special evening. Reservations are very highly recommended, it will sell out in advance.

 

A Tradition Christmas Eve Reveillon

Christmas Eve, December 24 2012, 4-9pm

 

First course:

Hearts of Palm Bisque with Vanilla, Truffle, and Pumpernickel

Coconut & Calf’s Foot Soup, ca. 1885 with shrimp and fingerling potatoes

Oyster Stew with House-cured Country Ham and Buttered Croutons

Second course:

Pickled Baby Beet Salad with Clotted Cream, Absinthe Gems, Frisee, and Celery Salt Croutons

Hoophouse Mustard Greens with Shallot, Candied Peanut, and Ginger-Benne Vinaigrette

Entree:

Heritage American Buff Goose Gumbo with House-made Chaurice Meatballs, & Arkansas Delta Rice

Creamed Venison Pie with Celery Root, Rutabaga, Leeks, and Horseradish Red Wine Jus

Stuffed Rushing Waters Trout with Crawfish Rice Dressing and Charred Brussels Sprouts in Lemon Butter

Toasted Henry Moore Corn Spaetzle Heirloom Christmas Butterbean Gravy, Pearl Onions, Roasted Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Toasted Bread Crumbs

Dessert:

A Traditional Doberge Cake of Chocolate, Lemon, Caramel

Rum & Nutmeg Bread Pudding with Molasses Cookie Crumble, Vanilla Bean Ice Cream

Sweet Potato Pie with Sticky Sorghum Caramel Corn, Candied Ginger, Whipped Kilgus Farmstead Cream

 

Forty-eight dollars per person, twenty per person under age twelve

Venison pie from last year's Reveillon. Game pies are an old Creole standby.

Venison pie from last year’s Reveillon. Game pies are an old Creole standby.

The doberge cake from last year's Reveillon. We're going for an even taller cake this year!

The doberge cake from last year’s Reveillon. We’re going for an even taller cake this year!

Huckleberry Jelly Roll, Candied Hickory Nuts, Honeysuckle Ice Cream, Chicory

Wednesday, September 26th, 2012

This past weekend I had the priviledge to cook a collaborative dinner at Stella’s Southern Bistro with Chef/Owner Jason Scholtz and Edward Lee of 610 Magnolia in Louisville. It was an inspiring pair to work with, so for dessert I wanted to create something uniquely Southern but that also played with my childhood experiences in the woods during the late summer/fall time frame, a season which is still my fovorite time of year because of the very special memories I have of gathering and eating honeysuckles straight from the vine, and foraging nuts on the forest floor. I also loved jelly cakes – we had our own techniques for them back then but for this dinner I wanted to play with dramatic presentation of a jelly roll cake, which, since my favorite roll cake recipe comes from an Edna Lewis book, it would allow me to give her the tip of my hat she deserves almost any time I put my nose to the grindstone.

I selected huckleberries for the jelly because they represent rural mountain culture and they are also flat-out my favorite berry. While they grow wild throughout much of the Appalachian chain, they are especially elusive there because they like high elevations, and much of the Appalachian forest has, at one time or another, been clear-cut. The berries we are using here have been foraged in the Northwest.

The chicory plays two roles – and I created this dessert first and foremost to pair with the Truchard late harvest Roussane that was the paired wine for dinner – number one, the rich and sweet components of the dessert needed a bitter counterpoint to prevent the whole plate from becoming cloying, and chicory itself has a storied history in the Southern kitchen, for years standing in for coffee in the remote mountain cultures where coffee simply wasn’t available, or too expensive. In pairing with the Roussane, the roasted root provides roasty-toasty smoky brown flavors to catch the smoke and petrol in the Roussane. It worked beautifully, and at least a couple of requests came back through social media for us to offer the dessert in Chicago, so it is debuting this weekend for what we expect will be a long fall tour. At some point, we may run out of our homemade huckleberry jelly and switch to homemade elderberry jelly, but that’s OK because the elderberry jelly is pretty awesome too.