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	<title>Big Jones: There&#039;s a History in Every Dish</title>
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	<description>Big Jones (Chicago) - Chef Paul&#039;s blog</description>
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		<title>Out with the old Big Jones, in with the new</title>
		<link>http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/?p=1873</link>
		<comments>http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/?p=1873#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 03:25:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Paul</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Big Jones]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chef Paul]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/?p=1873</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[As we approached four years into our adventure that is Big Jones, Mark and I found ourselves soul searching over our direction and ultimately the whole picture of what we&#8217;ve built. On the one hand, it&#8217;s been humbling to have met all of you, hear the compliments and the praise daily, and read the critical [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Finished-Bar.jpg"><img class="wp-image-1874 alignleft" title="Finished Bar" src="http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Finished-Bar.jpg" alt="" width="576" height="384" /></a></p>
<p>As we approached four years into our adventure that is Big Jones, Mark and I found ourselves soul searching over our direction and ultimately the whole picture of what we&#8217;ve built. On the one hand, it&#8217;s been humbling to have met all of you, hear the compliments and the praise daily, and read the critical acclaim that has seemed to pile up with each passing month. Dear friends, family, and strangers on the street have offered congratulations on our success time and again, which usually catches me by surprise and leaves me bashful. While it&#8217;s become clear over the last couple of years that we are succeeding in building a business that should have staying power, I&#8217;ve never been able to sit back and admit to myself that I&#8217;ve been successful.</p>
<p>Maybe I&#8217;m striving too much. On the other hand, it&#8217;s been easy for a guest or passerby on Saturday night at 8 p.m. or Sunday at noon to think we have hit a grand slam, but it&#8217;s another thing entirely to have come by on a random Wednesday night and find only a handful of people in the dining room. Those nights have always hurt me and I&#8217;ve taken them very personally in spite of the fact that we&#8217;ve been profitable since early 2009 as we emerged from the Wall Street crash. Doesn&#8217;t financial success (not that we&#8217;ve been wildly profitable, just getting along as any shopkeep hopes to do) define success? Well, really it doesn&#8217;t for Mark or me. We have never escaped the panicky conviction that we weren&#8217;t doing what we set out to do. At least not all of it. Sure, we wanted to make money. We also wanted to convey an idea, and the beautiful, rich regional diversity of Southern cooking wasn&#8217;t all of it, nor was our desire to serve local and sustainably sourced foods the whole story. There was a whole story that wasn&#8217;t finished, and where we really veered from the course was our goal of keeping this kind of food accessible to as many people as possible, and making it the sort of place you&#8217;d want to come every day, including holidays. No mannerisms, no fuss, no muss, just good food and drink and good times.</p>
<p>A  funny thing happened shortly after we first opened just over four years ago. We&#8217;d only been open a week and the dining room staff started asking me what we were doing for Mother&#8217;s Day. Initially my answer was well, we&#8217;re going to be open but it won&#8217;t be busy we should run light staff that day. It was a special occasion and we weren&#8217;t that kind of place, or so I thought. I soon learned that we were being sought out as a Mother&#8217;s Day destination. Plans were made, extra staff was brought in, and we were off to the races. I&#8217;ll never forget that feeling that I had no idea what I&#8217;d gotten into.</p>
<p>Over time it became clear we have phenomenal business on the weekends and holidays and it&#8217;s very spotty during the week. We have to take responsibility for our business developing the way that it has but this isn&#8217;t a scenario we&#8217;re happy with to the extent that we even briefly considered closing Big Jones even though by industry standards our profit margins have been good, if not great. Some would say we hit a home run on our first at bat. I&#8217;d disagree because we weren&#8217;t doing what we set out to do.</p>
<p>Our response from the get-go when we realized that the dining public was looking at us as a special occasion restaurant (surely because of some message we were sending even though we weren&#8217;t conscious of it) was to adapt to that expectation, rather than trying to change the message we were sending to be more in line with what we were trying to create. We upped the ante on our service standards to be more formal, our platings to be more composed with more components, and otherwise be a restaurant that met the public&#8217;s expectations when they dined with us, which was most often on special occasions. Overall we got good results, garnered an excellent reputation, our fair share of accolades, and a profitable business. Somehow every time we&#8217;d serve 400 people on a Saturday and then 30 people on a Tuesday we felt like we were off track. It&#8217;s hard to be at your best when you are always either mad-slammed or dead quiet. We&#8217;ve always felt off balance. Not a good feeling.</p>
<p>Experienced upper middle class diners and industry people tell us how moderate our prices are. Well true, to many folks maybe they are, but to others they are out of reach altogether or reserved for special occasions. We understand that there is no better compliment than to choose us to celebrate your birthday, family holiday, engagement, or whatever special occasion you have at hand. We hope our hospitality lives up to those kinds of expectations, we always wanted it to be. But on the other hand, we wanted Big Jones the place you could go all the time. Home, family. The kind of family you hang out with all the time, not the kind of family you only see on two to three required family holidays each year. It&#8217;s also a little bit personal to me, coming from a working class background. I&#8217;ve never been comfortable myself in places that feel &#8220;exclusive&#8221; either by price, reservations required, or the attitude of the staff. To make the restaurant more like me, it would need to be more friendly to the common working folk I call my friends and family. And let&#8217;s face it &#8211; we&#8217;re price conscious.</p>
<p>A couple of years ago, I was lucky enough to meet one of the smartest restaurant industry folks I&#8217;ve ever met, <a href="http://ellenmalloy.com/" target="_blank">Ellen Malloy</a> , when I signed Big Jones up for her restaurant PR service <a href="http://hq.restaurantintelligenceagency.com/" target="_blank">Restaurant Intelligence Agency</a>. Besides all the wonderful public relations opportunities that have come our way via her <a href="http://hq.restaurantintelligenceagency.com/" target="_blank">site</a>, I started to look at her as a mentor even though she wouldn&#8217;t consider herself one, mostly by regularly reading her blog, following her on Twitter and <a href="http://www.facebook.com/EllenMalloy" target="_blank">Facebook</a>, and taking in little bits of her wisdom as they became available. I reached out to Ellen when I was feeling particularly discontent late last summer, and frankly, Big Jones might have been sold by now were it not for her help and advice. Essentially it came down to doing what made me happy, making the restaurant in my image, and damn the consequences, stop pulling punches and fuck everyone who doesn&#8217;t dig what you&#8217;re doing. The restaurant had to become more personal for me to be happy with it, and that meant I had to stop adjusting to what I thought people wanted the restaurant to be (because how could I really know what the hell that is anyway) and just make it what I want. If that means changing it, change it. Damnit. So here we are. Down the road, if I&#8217;m ever uncomfortable with the direction the restaurant is heading, I&#8217;ll know what to do. Change course to make it go where I want it to go.</p>
<p>Over the last few months and continuing over the next several months, we have been and will continue making incremental changes to get to our goal of being a regular eating and drinking spot for more people. Sure, we want you to visit us on the holidays just like you&#8217;d visit friends and family. But we&#8217;d like to see you more regularly. The changes we&#8217;ve made plus the ones we have on tap include</p>
<ul>
<li><em><strong>Refocusing our brand away from destination fine dining to being your friendly neighborhood tavern and inn</strong></em> &#8211; that is a place where you can go any day or night and have something delicious to eat and drink and at prices that make it approachable for everyday dining.</li>
<li><em><strong>Honing in on historic and heirloom Southern cooking</strong></em>. This was inevitable because I&#8217;ve always been a bit of a history geek and I love researching the roots of modern American cooking and figuring out how to get back to our roots, to the days before Food Inc. ruined the way America eats. It&#8217;s about returning to the old arts in order to move cooking forward.</li>
<li><em><strong>Completely reformatting the me</strong><strong>nu</strong><strong>s</strong></em> away from a formal, French table service format to something more traditionally American and inspired by the old roadside taverns and inns &#8211; we always have snacks on hand, home baked goods, some main courses, and in a most uniquely Southern way, an array of side dishes including lots of vegetables.</li>
<li><em><strong>We are moving away from formal table service</strong></em> to a more casual spirit &#8211; that is to say, you decide how you&#8217;d like us to serve you. One thing we often heard was some folks don&#8217;t like to come on weeknights because they would feel committed to a multi-course dinner and who has time for that on a Wednesday? All of our menus are now formatted so you can set your table the way you want &#8211; a quick and easy supper, a table of plates to share with friends, or a longer, more involved dining experience. We call this American table service &#8211; it&#8217;s not up to you to conform to our service style, it&#8217;s up for us to provide you with what you want. We know you work hard day to day and you are usually looking for an easygoing, casual dining experience and we&#8217;re here to provide that, service to our usual high standards with you calling the shots.</li>
<li><em><strong>Re-engineering our whole hog butchering program</strong></em> to change how we utilize each animal, allowing us to bring prices down overall. This means using the whole animal more efficiently, and wasting nothing. This is manifest in items like baked beans, and the runaway hit biscuits on brunch, made with our house-rendered lard. It&#8217;s old Southern farmstead cooking in the most authentic and sincere way. It also means something crucial &#8211; our prices are more approachable than ever, and we hope you&#8217;ll take advantage of them on a regular basis.</li>
<li><em><strong>Remodeling the bar</strong></em> to provide a more open, comfortable space. This was a big one for us because we felt like our bar design was perhaps our biggest design failure. Mark and I love to drink, and when we&#8217;re eating out somewhere with an interesting cocktail or beer program, we might just as likely sit at the bar to eat because it&#8217;s easier to banter and interact with staff. We feel like we hit the mark this time, so please come have a drink at our bar and let us know what you think. If you like it, let us know. If there&#8217;s something we could improve, even more important to let us know!</li>
<li><em><strong>Installing draft beer</strong></em>. This should have been a no-brainer from day one but it really wasn&#8217;t in the budget as such systems are expensive and we started on a small budget, on our own without big money behind us. We thought then that we would eventually get draft beer should we become successful and here we are. Mark is far more likely than I to have a beer if we&#8217;re out but for both of us, if we&#8217;re going to have beer, it&#8217;s going to be on draft. We also like to think we&#8217;d be the kind of spot you&#8217;d stop by for a drink and a snack, and for many of us that means a frosty draft beer. We&#8217;re starting with four taps and will bring you local craft brews in season.</li>
<li><em><strong>We&#8217;ll always have an artisinal cider on draft</strong></em> because true cider is an indispensable link to our drinking traditions &#8211; in old Virginia and Appalachia particularly, beer wasn&#8217;t all that common, and if a fizzy fermented beverage was served up, chances are it was cider. We&#8217;re working with Prima and Virtue cider to always have on draft a local cider made in the traditional way with heirloom apples and American oak barrels. If you&#8217;ve never tried Prima <em>Most</em> or Virue <em>Red Streak</em>, please come in and give them a try. It&#8217;s an eye opener.</li>
<li><em><strong>Turning our cocktail program up a few notches</strong></em> to pair with our historic heirloom cooking, bringing you our personal takes on classic cocktails, and with a fun new offering: a selection of punches based on historic antebellum recipes, using housemade bitters, cordials, and fun long-forgotten preparations such as oleo-saccharum, a tried and true way to get citrus oils to dissolve in alcohol or water for delicious infusions and sodas.</li>
<li><em><strong>We founded the Big Jones Bourbon Society</strong></em> and have expanded our whiskey collection to more than 80 labels with more to come. Nothing is more Southern than bourbon whiskey and we love to sip a good one. We founded the Big Jones Bourbon Society to bring whiskey lovers together and provide tasting opportunities, social events, and dinners. Now that we&#8217;ve passed 500 members, look for activity to perk up. Haven&#8217;t joined yet? Come in and ask the bartender or your server. It&#8217;s free and there are great benefits!</li>
<li><em><strong>Displaying new art on the walls</strong></em> &#8211; following Ellen&#8217;s admonition to make the restaurant more personal, we&#8217;ve blown up and displayed favorite photos of ours from our travels in the South &#8211; most from South Louisiana and South Carolina, but some from Mississippi and Florida.</li>
</ul>
<p>Just as important is what is not going to change:</p>
<ul>
<li><em><strong>We still buy our food from local, organic, and sustainable sources</strong></em>. We don&#8217;t do so &#8220;whenever possible&#8221; or with any qualifiers. The fact is when a restaurant says they do that, they are probably b.s.ing you. We&#8217;ve actually added to our family of farms this year and plan to continue doing so. More of our food is local, sustainable, or organic than ever (we go over 80% at peak of the season) and all of our meat and dairy products are always local, from small family farms exclusively raised in pasture. That is a commitment we made when we opened and it will not ever change. We will close Big Jones before we serve the product of tortured animals.</li>
<li><em><strong>Our service standards will be higher than ever,</strong></em> we are just changing how we focus our service. It&#8217;s going to be focused on giving you the kind of dining experience you want, and not the formal dining experience that many of you were dismayed to find yourselves in when you just stopped by for a quick bite. We&#8217;re dropping the one-size-fits-all service standard and focusing on engaging you, finding out what you want, and giving it to you on your terms, not the outmoded stodgy French table service style that was our standard.</li>
<li><em><strong>We will always make everything we serve in house</strong></em>, including the preserves, pickles, charcuterie, and home-baked breads you&#8217;ve come to know and love. By applying the lessons of the old farmsteads like the one my grandparents had and learning to cook with the same spirit of love and frugality they lived with, we can provide these simple joys for a price common folk can afford.</li>
</ul>
<p>We&#8217;re still on the fence about changing our tabletops to wood. If you have an opinion about that, we&#8217;d love to hear from you.</p>
<p>During my reading and research over the last few years, I&#8217;ve repeatedly been enthralled and fascinated by the roadside and city taverns and inns of the South from Virginia to New Orleans, and how magnificent that hospitality must have been, always with home cooking, but to imagine the sense of comfort and escape you could feel by stopping in on a journey from A to B, in those days when travel was quite an undertaking. Life now is different but in many ways similar &#8211; daily life is full of stress and hardships and everyone appreciates the great escape of warm hospitality with great food and friendly accommodating service. One aspect of service in the old days was that plated meals didn&#8217;t really exist; service was family-style. We&#8217;ve sought to recreate that in our Boarding House Lunch, but with dinner and brunch we&#8217;ve taken a different route &#8211; offering plated main dishes with snacks, appetizers, sides, and vegetable dishes meant for sharing so you can set your table to your liking and enjoy the same spirit of dining and sharing plates with your companions.</p>
<p>Taverns weren&#8217;t always what we think of as taverns today &#8211; in fact, in Chicago a Tavern License is for serving alcohol without food. Traditionally American Taverns were inns where alcoholic beverages, particularly spirits, were consumed in addition to meals. They were also decorated as beautifully as possible, though many were simple rooms. This hit home with me. Years ago if you asked me what kind of restaurant I really wanted to open I would have said a little neighborhood bar with great food and great drinks. End of story, and here we are.</p>
<p>I do have an interest in fine dining and also in quick service and ideas for projects in both those areas, but those are future projects and Big Jones is not one of those. It&#8217;s a comfortable little tavern serving simple, expertly prepared heirloom southern cooking much like you would have enjoyed in the old days stopping off on a trip and looking for repast.</p>
<p>I&#8217;d like to thank you for reading my blog over the years, and supporting our restaurant with your patronage. If you&#8217;ve enjoyed Big Jones in the past, we&#8217;re confident you&#8217;ll love it even more now, and hopefully we&#8217;ve given you a few reasons to enjoy it more often. Our servers will tell you I&#8217;m famously shy and hard to pin down, and that&#8217;s true, but I&#8217;d love to say hi and thank you in person any time you&#8217;re at Big Jones or see me at an event. I&#8217;d also love to hear what you think of our changes and any ideas or feedback you have. I&#8217;m also so happy myself with our new bar that a likely place to catch me will be after service at Big Jones, relaxing with a draft beer or cider, or perhaps a sip of whiskey. It&#8217;s a great time to chat.</p>
<p>Finally, a few pictures of recent menu items and specials that reflect our simpler, yet still refined cooking style.</p>
<div id="attachment_1880" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 460px"><a href="http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Cheese-Straws.jpg"><img class="size-large wp-image-1880" title="Cheese Straws" src="http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Cheese-Straws-768x1024.jpg" alt="" width="450" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Home baked cheese straws, a cocktail snack</p></div>
<div id="attachment_1876" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 460px"><a href="http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Mint-Julep.jpg"><img class="size-large wp-image-1876" title="Mint Julep" src="http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Mint-Julep-923x1024.jpg" alt="" width="450" height="499" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A mint julep served in a traditional julep cup</p></div>
<p><a href="http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/andouille-waffle.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-large wp-image-1877" title="andouille waffle" src="http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/andouille-waffle-1024x768.jpg" alt="Colonial bennecake waffle with charred house andouille and sea island pea gravy" width="450" height="337" /></a></p>
<div id="attachment_1878" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 460px"><a href="http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Cream-Puff.jpg"><img class="size-large wp-image-1878" title="Cream Puff" src="http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Cream-Puff-1024x927.jpg" alt="" width="450" height="407" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A cream puff made according to an 1885 Louisiana recipe</p></div>
<div id="attachment_1879" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 460px"><a href="http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Salmon-king-wood-grilled.jpg"><img class="size-large wp-image-1879" title="Salmon king wood grilled" src="http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Salmon-king-wood-grilled-1024x768.jpg" alt="" width="450" height="337" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">King salmon cooked on the wood grill and served with asparagus and green garlic carolina gold rice risotto &amp; local wild watercress.</p></div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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		<title>Big Jones Welcomes Buffalo Trace Master Distiller Harlen Wheatley with a Celebration of the Kentucky Table</title>
		<link>http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/?p=1871</link>
		<comments>http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/?p=1871#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 May 2012 20:02:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Paul</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Bourbon Society]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Events]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bourbon society]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[kentucky]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/?p=1871</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[June 7, 2012 we are happy to welcome Master Distiller Harlen Wheatley of Buffalo Trace Distillery to Big Jones for a special dinner to celebrate the whiskeys of Buffalo Trace. This dinner means a lot to me personally as many know, if I&#8217;m drinking it&#8217;s usually with a bottle of Buffalo Trace nearby, if not [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>June 7, 2012 we are happy to welcome Master Distiller Harlen Wheatley of Buffalo Trace Distillery to Big Jones for a special dinner to celebrate the whiskeys of Buffalo Trace. This dinner means a lot to me personally as many know, if I&#8217;m drinking it&#8217;s usually with a bottle of Buffalo Trace nearby, if not Eagle Rare or Blanton&#8217;s. I&#8217;ve also been a long time fan of the Sazerac collection of rye whiskeys (long time customers can remember when it was our go-to whiskey for the Sazerac cocktail before rye became so hot and it went on allocation) as well as the antique collection including Thomas Handy and George T. Stagg. Of course they are now also the home of Pappy Van Winkle, a tipple every bourbon enthusiast has to take now and again to be reminded just what heights bourbon whiskey can reach. Buffalo Trace is one of the biggest and perhaps most significant players in the resurgence of bourbon whiskey into the minds of epicures, to the extent that I think there can no longer be any doubt that Kentucky stands only with Scotland as the most hallowed ground in the history of distillation.</p>
<p>My grandparents on my dad&#8217;s side of the family, Grandma Rose and Grandpa Albert Fehribach, had a little farmstead right on the old Buffalo Trace east of my hometown of Jasper, Indiana, which had been in our family since they settled the area in 1836. Back in those days, the Buffalo Trace was the main road out of Appalachia into Illinois and linking up to the Mississippi River on the far end, but I always knew it as the path of the buffalo from Kentucky to the Wabash River in Vincennes.</p>
<p>The roots of inspiration here are obvious, and rather than dating a menu as I&#8217;ve done with previous bourbon dinners, what I&#8217;ve tried to do here is collect vignettes of some of the most traditional yet unique foods from the annals of Kentucky cooking. Because of the history of settlement patterns and the realities of climate zones and rainfall patterns, there&#8217;s a great deal of crossover here with my own family&#8217;s ancestral cooking, and studying the history of Kentucky foodways has been an inspiring look into my own past. This dinner then has double significance representing the foods of my native country, and cooking to serve with some of my absolute favorite bourbons including my own personal standby, Buffalo Trace.</p>
<p>Many of you have surely heard of beer cheese, and perhaps know all about salt rising bread, but I suspect few Chicagoans are familiar with the Western Kentucky standard of barbecue, mutton. We&#8217;ll be getting a mutton in from Mint Creek Farm and giving it the long, low slow hickory wood treatment and serving it with the requisite black sauce, a concoction of our house made worcestershire sauce, brown sugar, vinegar, and spices. This barbecue is compelling enough that we are not seeking to &#8220;elevate&#8221; it in any way, you&#8217;re going to get a very traditional plate of mutton barbecue.</p>
<p>Before we&#8217;ve even done this public release, at least a half dozen people have mentioned to me the price is too low.  I don&#8217;t think so and I&#8217;ll elaborate for a moment. The Big Jones Bourbon Society is, first and foremost, an organization of whiskey enthusiasts. When we designed the passport and as we&#8217;ve put on these dinners, our goal has been to keep our events and our tastings as approachable as possible. I realize that even at $50, many folks will be priced out of participating and that hurts me more personally than missing out on another $25 or $50 per ticket. At $50 we can cover our expenses and maybe, if the stars align in our favor, make a few pennies. I&#8217;m more concerned with building our community and I believe that in the end profit will take care of itself. That said, I&#8217;m not concerned with making money on this dinner or any other BJBS dinner. I want as many people as possible to have access to our activities, and to be introduced to distillers we care about. So, while we could easily sell this out at $75 or $100, my conscience could not forgive me for leaving out that many more people who couldn&#8217;t afford the higher price point. Let&#8217;s sip some bourbon, eat, celebrate these great craftspeople, and worry about money another day.</p>
<p>Please join us for a special evening of culinary adventure and world class spirits. Reserve soon, as it will sell out quickly.</p>
<h1>Big Jones Welcomes Buffalo Trace Master Distiller Harlen Wheatley</h1>
<h3>Thursday, June 7 2012</h3>
<p><strong>6:30 reception   *   7:30 Dinner</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Salt rising bread with Kentucky beer cheese, heirloom radishes, and many relishes</strong></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Fried green tomatoes with country ham &amp; egg salad, and green tomato relish</strong></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Henry Moore corn spoonbread souffle with scrambled brains &amp; chives</strong></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>A refreshing shot of house-cultured buttermilk with pickled beets &amp; early summer herbs</strong></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Barbecued Mint Creek Farm mutton with black sauce, kohlrabi slaw, sliced early onion, and creamy new potato salad</strong></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Local strawberries with shortcake of heirloom buckwheat and ham drippings and whipped housemade cottage cheese</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Buffalo Trace bourbons to be poured:</h2>
<ul>
<li><strong>White Dog Mash #1</strong></li>
<li><strong>Buffalo Trace</strong></li>
<li><strong>Eagle Rare 10 year Single Barrel</strong></li>
<li><strong>Blanton&#8217;s Single Barrel</strong></li>
<li><strong>Weller Special Reserve</strong></li>
</ul>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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		<title>Our May Whiskey of the Month: Heaven Hill!</title>
		<link>http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/?p=1866</link>
		<comments>http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/?p=1866#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 May 2012 04:30:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Paul</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Bourbon Society]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bourbon society]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/?p=1866</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Heaven Hill Distillery is a giant, not only in the bourbon business, but in the distilling business, producing world-class liqueurs, brandies, and gins in addition to the bourbons for which it is so famous. Our primary interest being bourbon of course, we know it as the fountain of some of our most revered spirits, Evan [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Heaven-hill.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1867" title="Heaven hill" src="http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Heaven-hill.jpg" alt="" width="240" height="320" /></a></p>
<p>Heaven Hill Distillery is a giant, not only in the bourbon business, but in the distilling business, producing world-class liqueurs, brandies, and gins in addition to the bourbons for which it is so famous. Our primary interest being bourbon of course, we know it as the fountain of some of our most revered spirits, Evan Williams, Elijah Craig, Rittenhouse, Parker&#8217;s Heritage Collection, and of course, Heaven Hill.</p>
<p>Heaven Hill blended whiskey is a value-priced bourbon, and while we usually feature premium-label spirits as Whiskey of the Month, we thought this is one you should get to know, especially in this tough economic environment, because it&#8217;s really, really good, and it won&#8217;t cost you a day&#8217;s wages for a bottle. This is the best place to start if you want to get to know Heaven Hill distillery, so here goes.</p>
<p>Heaven Hill is one of the younger distilleries in Kentucky, founded in 1935 during the depths of the Great Depression and shortly after prohibition was repealed. It was a bold move. Over the years they&#8217;ve introduced some of the most venerated brands in the Bourbon market today. Their namesake bourbon is aged four years in American oak barrels and straight from the bottle explodes with fruity tropical fruit aromas, nutmeg, and a hint of vanilla and char. On the palate there&#8217;s a bit of heat as you&#8217;d expect from a young whiskey, but the heat quickly gives way to generous spicy flavors from allspice to nutmeg and roasted tea on the finish.</p>
<p>This is a great whiskey for juleps, and guess what time of year it is? Did we really plan it that way? Cheers, and keep sipping bourbon.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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		<title>Family Meal: A Foggy Mountain Getaway, ca. 1880 or, A Hillbilly Homecoming</title>
		<link>http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/?p=1863</link>
		<comments>http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/?p=1863#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Apr 2012 15:40:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Paul</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Family Meal]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Appalachia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[family meal]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/?p=1863</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[If you read this blog or visit Big Jones regularly, you&#8217;ve likely noticed that the focus of our cooking is gravitating ever-so-slightly to the mountains. There are many reasons for this, chief among them that I repeatedly felt I was selling Southern cooking short by leaving out one of its great regional cuisines, that being [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you read this blog or visit Big Jones regularly, you&#8217;ve likely noticed that the focus of our cooking is gravitating ever-so-slightly to the mountains. There are many reasons for this, chief among them that I repeatedly felt I was selling Southern cooking short by leaving out one of its great regional cuisines, that being the cooking of Appalachia. Research into my own family&#8217;s roots as well as reading in advance of an upcoming book project have intensified my interest in the hearty yet elegant seasonal cooking of the mountain people.</p>
<p>At risk of selling the great diversity of Appalachian cooking short, I thought there were three dishes I needed to do for a tribute to Appalachia as part of our Family Meal series. Granted, we&#8217;re just at the beginning of our journey into the heart and soul of Appalachian cooking, and I expect to take every opportunity to get deeper into the history and traditions of one of America&#8217;s most misunderstood regions.</p>
<p>Three (four, really) dishes guide a meaningful first look into Appalachian cooking, and in future dinners we&#8217;ll explore things a bit more deeply. Those dishes are soup beans, potlikker (invariably served with cornbread and historically most true, corn pone,) chicken and dumplings, and dried apple stack cake.</p>
<p>Much reading on the history and lore of Appalachia has led me to the 19th century as a most interesting time to eat there, when much of the region prospered in its own unique way, when small farms and small towns dotted the landscape and the cooking was hyper-seasonal and hyper-local. It being Spring here, I&#8217;ve tried to capture a glimpse of eating there in the late 19th century (one of the distinctions of that time was the availability of <em>saleratus,</em> an early baking powder.) True, the country ham is nowhere to be seen but it&#8217;s coming in future dinners, I promise.</p>
<p>In his landmark book <em>Southern Food: At home, on the road, in history,</em> John Egerton lamented that (this was in the 80&#8242;s) fewer and fewer cooks and restaurants were willing to go to the trouble of cooking real Southern food the old way. True, it&#8217;s a lot of work and the arts nearly disappeared. But they didn&#8217;t. Largely thanks to the impact that book has had, chefs and home cooks across the South (the entire country, really) are taking the old arts back up and we have the opportunity now to eat like we did then -simply, beautifully from the land, in season. It&#8217;s a lot of work, but we think it&#8217;s worth it and think you&#8217;ll agree.</p>
<p>As far as the subtitle goes, I personally am proud of my roots deep in the rolling wooded hills of Southern Indiana, and many times throughout my life have self-described alternately as &#8220;hillbilly&#8221; or &#8220;hilljack.&#8221; Appalachia and its people are some of the most misunderstood and misrepresented folks in the popular culture and mass media and I personally will take ownership of those words and tell you that the mountain folk developed and maintained a very elegant, ecologically sustainable way of life until it was destroyed for many by the coal and timber industries. Nonetheless, if you look at the region and its traditions with an open mind, particularly its culinary heritage, you&#8217;d recognize this is one of America&#8217;s most distinct and compelling regions. I look forward to doing my part to change what America think of us hillbillies.</p>
<p>As with all of our Family Meals and our menu as a whole, everything, everything, here is hand-made from small local or regional farms and foragers. If you have specific questions, we&#8217;re always happy to talk about our sources with you.</p>
<p>This Family Meal runs from April 6 through Mother&#8217;s Day, ending May 12. Please come by and enjoy some good old fashioned mountain cooking!</p>
<h2><strong>A Foggy Mountain Getaway</strong><br />
<strong> ca. 1880</strong></h2>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong> Kentucky Soup Beans</strong></span></p>
<p>White beans cooked with fatback, ham shanks, and lots of onion, served with chow-chow, spring onion bottoms, and creasy greens</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Fried Corn Pone with Potlikker</strong></span></p>
<p>An essential accompaniment to soup beans—rustic cornmeal cakes served with collard greens in their savory cooking broth</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Chicken and Dumplings</strong></span></p>
<p>Prepared in the traditional Appalachian style—simply stewed chicken with thick and hearty egg dumplings, garnished with spring onion tops</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Sweet &amp; Sour Baked Beets</strong></span></p>
<p>Local red beets baked with sourwood honey, vinegar, and a touch of mustard, dressed with a dash of clabbered cream</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Dried Apple Stack Cake</strong></span></p>
<p>The Appalachian celebration cake &#8211; layer upon layer of home made yellow cake stacked with stewed apples and a generous drizzling of sorghum syrup, topped with whipped cream</p>
<p>Available daily 5-9 p.m. $25 per person, total table participation requested. Children under age twelve, $1 per year.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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		<title>Let a Thousand Flowers Bloom</title>
		<link>http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/?p=1858</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Apr 2012 04:39:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Paul</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Events]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[farms]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/?p=1858</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Each year, we try to grow our farm family at Big Jones. We&#8217;re really proud of the folks we work with and the produce, grains, and livestock they supply for your table. At the same time, I&#8217;m notorious for being both loyal and thoughtful, meaning I won&#8217;t push a current supplier aside just to work [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Each year, we try to grow our farm family at Big Jones. We&#8217;re really proud of the folks we work with and the produce, grains, and livestock they supply for your table. At the same time, I&#8217;m notorious for being both loyal and thoughtful, meaning I won&#8217;t push a current supplier aside just to work with a new one, and I&#8217;m also not one to make changes without lots of time to weigh the possibilities and pitfalls that lay ahead. I have to say it didn&#8217;t take much thought for me to become eager to work with <a href="http://www.thespencefarm.com/">Spence Farm</a> because they are exactly the type of folks we like to work with &#8211; they are loving stewards of their land and animals, and just as important, they care deeply about our common heritage of seeds, livestock, and local and regional food systems. I&#8217;ve wanted to work with them a long time, and finally this winter we had the opportunity to bring them into our farm family, mostly because business has been on the rise and we need more produce and grains, so we can keep working with our favorite farms and Spence Farm becomes part of our family.</p>
<p>One of the really cool things about Spence Farm is the <a href="http://spencefarmfoundation.org/">Spence Farm Foundation</a>, which seeks to cultivate our regional food system by bringing new farmers into the market and mentoring them. The tricky thing about a new farm is you need a market to sell into, but fortunately in Chicago we have a hungry and growing local food community. The question is, where to set up shop? Sean Sanders of Browntrout has put a lot of time and stock into getting a new farmer&#8217;s market into the North Center area of Lincoln and Irving Park Road, and working with Spence Farm Foundation and Stewards of the Land, the goal here is to create a market that first and foremost provides opportunities to new farmers.  A little bird told me that among the likely participants is <a href="http://www.facebook.com/NewTraditionsFarm">New Traditions Farm</a>, with whom we&#8217;ll also be working this year because they&#8217;ve demonstrated an eagerness to grow heritage crops that we see from few farmers. This will be a market to support.</p>
<p>The market needs money for expenses to get up and running. These include city fees, permits, logistics, and support. A fantastic group of local chefs calling ourselves <a href="http://www.facebook.com/groundupchicago">Ground Up</a> has taken charge of raising the finds to get the market off the ground. Some of us will also commit to buying from the market to ensure its success. An awesome party posing as a fundraiser is scheduled for Monday, April 9 at one of my favorite restaurants, Spacca Napoli, and you should come, enjoy some drinks by Koval Distillery and Rare Tea Cellar, and enjoy some eats by yours truly, and some of my favorite restaurants including Anteprima, Browntrout, C-House, Spacca Napoli, and more. 100% of your ticket price goes to Spence Farm Foundation to help get the Nowrth Center New Farmers Farmer&#8217;s Market up and running and continue the work of the foundation, including Ground Up, the Chefs&#8217; working group alongside the Foundation. If we&#8217;re to continue growing our movement and change the world for a better food future, we need to expand these opportunities for farmers. Please join us for a fun evening. If you come to the event and see me there, mention that you bought your ticket because you read this on my blog, and I&#8217;ll give you a goody bag of Big Jones fun stuff you can&#8217;t get anywhere else. How&#8217;s that for an offer?</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/groundup040912webpromo28129.jpg"><img class="aligncenter  wp-image-1859" title="groundup040912webpromo28129" src="http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/groundup040912webpromo28129.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="300" /></a></p>
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		<title>Appalachian Spring, ca 1880 with High West Distillery</title>
		<link>http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/?p=1853</link>
		<comments>http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/?p=1853#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 21 Mar 2012 17:39:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Paul</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Bourbon Society]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Events]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[BJBS]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[whiskey dinner]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bigjoneschicago.com/bigjonesblog/?p=1853</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[For our next whiskey dinner on April 19, we welcome High West Distillery. High West is one of our favorite boutique distilleries anywhere, making an interesting collection of aged rye whiskeys, plus silver oat and rye whiskeys, with the kind of artisinal passion that we like to see in our suppliers because it&#8217;s how we [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For our next whiskey dinner on April 19, we welcome High West Distillery. High West is one of our favorite boutique distilleries anywhere, making an interesting collection of aged rye whiskeys, plus silver oat and rye whiskeys, with the kind of artisinal passion that we like to see in our suppliers because it&#8217;s how we approach our cooking.</p>
<p>I thought it appropriate to pair the High West&#8217;s mountain whiskeys with traditional Appalachian fare since Appalachia, itself with a long history of distilling, was at one time the mountain range known as the West. It&#8217;s a common misconception that Appalachia has always been riddled with poverty, but that wasn&#8217;t always so &#8211; true, mountain life was always hard and involved a lot of work, but until the extractive timber and coal industries descended on the mountains after the Civil War, it was possible to prosper in a very unique way if you were willing to do the work, and many folks did. With this menu we are trying to recapture that time when Appalachia was a community of small farmers and homesteaders, and ate well from some of the richest country in the world.</p>
<p>This is not a menu for picky eaters; bring your greatest sense of adventure with you as we sample some of the greatest delicacies of the Appalachian traditions including ramps, cornflower, pokeweed, sorghum, morels, and Cherokee sweetmint. This is the beautiful food that sustained Appalachia for generations.</p>
<p>Back to dinner. We always try to provide a lot of value and this may be the best deal we&#8217;ve ever offered. These ingredients aren&#8217;t cheap since we can&#8217;t go out and forage them ourselves, plus we will work tirelessly to pull this off, and time is money. We can&#8217;t call some big distributor and tell them to bring us suckling pig ham, pokeweed, clabbered cream, sourwood honey, et al. I go out and personally find the raw ingredients from small producers and foragers. The clabbered cream we make ourselves from our regular weekly shipment from Kilgus Farmstead. The smoked suckling ham we will be serving will be dry-cured for 6 weeks, then smoked for three days. It comes from a young Gunthorp Farm hog of the duroc breed. The morels will be from an old and dear friend in deep southern Indiana, spoonbread from local heirloom cornmeal and Anson Mills heirloom grits, the sorghum taffy home made from a 19th-century heirloom recipe. The list goes on. Please join us for a very special evening. Call for reservations, 773-275-5725</p>
<h2>Appalachian Spring with High West Distillery</h2>
<h3>Thursday April 19, 2012<br />
Reception 6:30 Dinner 7:30</h3>
<ul>
<li>
<h3>Pan-fried morel mushrooms with hominy grits, pan gravy, and wild watercress</h3>
</li>
<li>
<h3>Traditional lard biscuits with Blue Ridge Mountain sourwood honey &amp; clabbered cream</h3>
</li>
<li>
<h3>Spoonbread with crackling, wilted ramp &amp; cornflower salad</h3>
</li>
<li>
<h3>Suckling pig ham poached in cream, poke sallet, pinto beans, and German potatoes</h3>
</li>
<li>
<h3>Rhubarb pie with Cherokee sweetmint ice cream</h3>
</li>
<li>
<h3>Sorghum Taffy</h3>
</li>
</ul>
<p>$50 per person includes tax, gratuity and pours of select High West whiskeys. For reservations call 773-275-5725</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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